For years, I considered dynohub light systems too expensive for my needs. Over the last two years, though, I've been rethinking that. Prices have dropped a bit, which has helped. Seasonal daily use of the CygoLight Dual Cross Pro light sets I bought at the end of 2009 has been educational as well.
I still like the CygoLite stuff, and will keep the systems around. I'll probably rig one on the tandem full-time, as the battery can be left on its charger for extended periods without over-charging (or so I gather from the instructions). That bike hasn't been out since we got back from RAIN, but we will probably use it some in the coming months, and having the ability to ride it after dark is appealing. The PVC light mount is almost to the point of being figured. Version 2.3, the current one, has taught me most of what I need to know to build version 3.0.
The first bike to get a new dynohub was the Globe, mainly because the most readily-available hub at the moment was a Shimano Alfine, generally considered the better electrically of it and the SON from what I've read so far (the SON is apparently more robust mechanically, and is available in a version that will work with the 20" front wheels on our Vanguards). The Alfine comes in black, much as did the model T Fords, and the only bike I have that would look right with it is the Globe. Oh, yeah, Jenn's Vanguard would look fine with a black hub, but the Shimano hub is not recommended with her 20" front wheel. For that, Jenn's Globe (silver disc brake hub) and my own Vanguard, I'll be getting SON hubs (eventually). The headlight I chose is the Supernova C3 multi-mount, as it is simplest to mount on this bike (basically involved using the bolt provided with the light, turned around from the orientation of the bolt attaching the fender to the fork crown). The light is just above the front fender, which is apparently about the design intended height from the ground. I'm looking at this for Jenn's Globe, which has the complication of the front cargo deck that sits very close to the fender. I may get the Lefty mount for her bike instead, but haven't decided. I noted on Peter White's web site that vertical orientation of these lights is important--the lens needs to be right side up for proper light distribution as well as the shell being right side up for weather protection.
The Globe now has its new hub, which required a Shimano-compatible center-lock disc to replace the Avid disc originally on that bike. New disc means new pads, and also meant I needed to burnish in the new front brakes before riding any distance. All that adds up when considering the cost of the light set, especially given that I have three CygoLite sets already in the fleet (at wholesale price, but still...). It will take a while to convert all the bikes.
I assembled the hub into my existing rim on Tuesday evening, and connected the light to the hub prior to taking the bike out to burnish in the new disc and pads. I haven't ridden the bike since then aside from a brief (two blocks or so) check ride to see how the light looks on darker roads. I think I'm going to like this light. The beam pattern is even and well-designed (I got the "glare free" model that is apparently certified as legal for use in Germany--it limits the light bleed into other road users' eyes). I'm looking forward to seeing how this does in use. I'm also looking forward to moving the battery pack and such from the other light system off the bike, but I might decide to mount it so that I can use it as a helmet mounted light (the better to dissuade folks from coming out into me from side streets or driveways).
Boulder, Louisville, and press coverage of crashes
16 years ago
1 comment:
I know what you mean about taking time (and money) to convert the bikes. I've only done one so far.
My daughter's bike is now outfitted with a new wheel built with an older Shimano hub that was given to me. We both rode down Crittenden last night after dark, with no lighting other than our dyno-powered lights. I'm quite pleased with them.
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